Dyker Heights’ Krispy Pizza is cream of the crop

A mainstay in Dyker Heights for nearly five decades, 13th Avenue’s Krispy Pizza is a go-to place in the neighborhood for not just standard pies but flavorful variants as well as a wide range of traditional Italian dishes…and for good reason.

On my visit, I tasted five of its offerings, and admired not only the overall appeal of the slices but the distinct differences in taste, beginning with the tomato sauce that graced several of them. These were definitely not one-size-fits-all.

“Each individual pizza has its own unique taste,” confirmed Freddy Palazzolo, who owns Krispy with two brothers, Tony and Vinny, having inherited it from his father, who founded it 49 years ago.

The offerings represent up a combination of their dad’s tried-and-true recipes and newer options that they’ve developed. “When my dad started it, it was round, square and calzone,” Palazzolo recalled.

Today, everything is different and Krispy has upwards of two dozen crave-worthy varieties of pizza, though one thing that hasn’t changed is the commitment to quality. “We use the best ingredients,” averred Palazzolo. “We don’t skimp. We’ve used the same mozzarella, the same tomatoes for years.” Their motto? “If it’s not broken, don’t fix it.”

Pizzas get added to the extensive menu, he said, when they have met with customer approval. “When we create something, we put it out there and get feedback,” Palazzolo explained. “If it sells, it’s a keeper.”

The varieties I tasted were all keepers.

The square Grandma slice ($2.50; $19, whole pie) featured a sweet, dense tomato sauce, fresh basil and fresh mozzarella, with a pleasing counterpoint between the textures and flavors.

But, that was just the beginning. Another square slice, the Palermo ($3.50; $23, whole pie), boasted a rich sauce made with plum tomatoes and caramelized onions, topped with fresh mozzarella and piled high on a thick, almost pillowy crust that was soft in the interior, and crisp at the bottom.

I tried three different round pies. The Faro Pizza dazzled with a topping of sweet fresh tomatoes rather than sauce, salty slices of prosciutto, lots of fresh mozzarella and strips of roasted red pepper ($3.50; $21, whole pie), for a symphony of flavors that hit all the right notes.

Another, the Vodka Pizza ($3.50; $19, round pie; $23, square pie) featured a savory tomato sauce spiked with ham, prosciutto and shallots as well as vodka and heavy cream, atop a thin crust, and topped with a blanket of mozzarella cheese.

The third, Spinach and Artichoke Pizza ($3.50; $21, whole pie), was a veggie-lover’s delight. There was no tomato sauce on this one; instead, the mozzarella-bathed, thin-crusted slice featured lots of cooked spinach, wedges of artichoke and the distinct and delightful flavor of garlic.

Fans should stay tuned for the eatery’s 50th anniversary, coming up in 2017, which Freddy promises will be extra-special.

7112 13th Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11228
718-745-9618 or 718-748-5797
Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-midnight
Free delivery ($10 minimum)

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