DINING OUT: Longbow goes a long way for quality comfort

Since opening in January of 2010, Longbow Pub and Pantry hasbecome the go-to destination for southwest Brooklynites looking fora good pint, good company and a good view of the night’s game.

Within the cozy, dark wood and big-screen TV-lined pub -deliberately reminiscent of a public house from owner MichaelColbert’s native Wales – a warm atmosphere and warm, friendlyservice underscore the homey goodness of the food, which is farmore than the typical pub fare found on this side of theAtlantic.

Not only is the menu full of hearty dishes, but Colbert and wifeJennifer, a native Brooklynite, emphasize the use of authenticingredients prepared by hand. They woo diners with a menu thathighlights the time-honored classics of the British Isles, pairedwith a wide selection of tap beers, pints and European craft alesfrom England, Scotland and Wales, carefully curated by Michaelhimself.

For example, the Welsh Rarebit ($6.50, add $2 for bacon) isrich-flavored and filling, but not cloying, and features agedCheddar cheese spiked with beer and melted over a thick hunk oflocally-baked country-style bread that somehow manages to hold-upto the creamy spread. The bacon curls on top add a complex contrastof flavors and textures.

Meanwhile, the Shepherd’s Pie ($13.50; $11.50 for the specialthat comes with a side salad, sautéed spinach or chips) was savory,chunky, creamy and hearty – everything that the comfort-food dishdemands. It was filled with ground lamb – not ground beef, whichColbert said would make it cottage pie – peas and colorful chunksof carrot, under a deep layer of golden-crusted mashedpotatoes.

No trip to Longbow is complete, though, without trying theirsignature Fish and Chips ($12.50) -meaty beer-battered fried codfilets next to a giant pile of fresh-cut chips hand-carved fromIdaho potatoes that Colbert says produce chips – not French fries -similar in taste and texture to those in England. As for thesauces, try the homemade garlic mayo or the tartar sauce for thisdish, as both are a cool counterpoint to the fish.

If you’re not up for a full meal, Longbow also has some savorysnack options, some of which can serve as a light meal.

The Scotch Egg ($7) brings together boon companions, egg andsausage, in a way that Americans are likely to find novel. Ahard-boiled egg is cloaked with sausage meat, rolled in breadcrumbsand deep-fried. It’s served, split down the middle on a bed oflightly dressed greens.

The Devils on Horseback ($5.50) is another quintessentiallyBritish treat. They comprise sweet, soft dates stuffed with acrunchy almond and wrapped in a bacon cloak for a dish that issimultaneously sweet and salty, with a contrast of textures andflavors that keeps the palate on alert.

You could also split a couple of Hamburger (three for $9.50) orPortobello (two for $8.50) sliders, both of which areportably-sized and filled amply with accompanying lettuce andtomatoes; the Portobello also including melted mozzarella and freshroasted vegetables.

In addition to a full menu, Longbow features Sunday trivianights at 7 p.m. led by barmaid Claire and Thursday afternoonMommy-Baby Happy Hour, which Jennifer noted is a social lifesaverfor new moms, like she once was, who crave camaraderie in thosefirst years.

Longbow is also the only pub in Bay Ridge to sell growlers,those 64-ounce glass bottles that can be filled with any of their12 draught beers and then drunk there or taken home, only to bebrought back during the next week’s game. Growlers cost $6 andrefills are $12, except for Guinness and Blanche du Bruxelles,which are $13.

Longbow Pub & Pantry

7316 Third Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11209

718-238-7468

www.longbownyc.com

Curbside pick-up available; no delivery.

Monday to Thursday from noon to 2 a.m.

Friday from noon to 4 a.m.

Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 a.m.

Sunday from 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.