DINING OUT: Savor the warmth at Glow

Glow, a new Thai restaurant at 7107 Third Avenue, is a welcomeaddition to the roster of Bay Ridge restaurants, only a few ofwhich offer Thai cuisine. Named to reflect the ideals of toprosper and to illuminate, the eatery is a month old and eagerto live up to its name.

So far, so good. With a menu of authentic dishes prepared byexperienced Thai chefs Suwanna and Sunat, the eatery – which wasdesigned by co-owner Anthony Loupos to have a bit of a lounge-likeambiance – offers a dining experience that is simultaneouslyupscale and comforting.

And, it’s not just the taste buds that can savor Glow’s food, aseach dish is elegantly plated and a banquet for the eyes. The menucontains flavorful and authentic presentations of seafood,vegetables, beef and poultry in curry or noodle form, as well as arange of unique soups and salads.

Among the appetizers, Curry Puffs ($5) are appealing pillows ofdough enfolding a flavorful mix of chicken, potatoes and onions ina yellow curry sauce that are served with a refreshing and tangycucumber relish. Shrimp rolls ($6) comprise whole shrimp wrapped incrunchy pastry and served with a sweet chili sauce.

Tom Yum ($4 or $8) is one of Glow’s signature soups, with a choiceof shrimp, chicken or tofu plus vegetables immersed in a brothinfused with the tart flavor of lemongrass and the subtle bite ofgalanga, a flavoring related to ginger.

Larb ($9) is a minced salad that can be prepared with chicken, porkor beef tossed with toasted rice. It came nested in a large iceberglettuce leaf, which provided a welcome fresh contrast with thespices – it can get a bit hot.

The pumpkin curry – a weekly special on offer through this fall(prices vary from $7 to $17 depending on whether it is lunch ordinner, and whether it is made with your choice of tofu, chicken orvegetables – the least expensive options – or duck, sole or tilapiawhich are the most expensive) – was amazing. Spicy and sweet, therich sauce enriched with basil and coconut milk enveloped chunks ofchicken and unexpectedly crisp slices of pumpkin.

Of course, no Thai restaurant would be complete without offeringthe classic Pad Thai, which can also be a good option for thoseunfamiliar with the East Asian cuisine. At Glow, it’s served upwith a variety of additions, ranging from tofu, chicken andvegetables ($7 at lunch, $9 at dinner) to seafood (($10 at lunch,$12 at dinner) and sole or tilapia ($17, dinner only). The dish isarranged as an elegant coil of noodles, studded with narrow stripsof carrot, daikon radish and bean sprouts, and enhanced by choppedpeanuts.

Of the desserts (all $6), which include Sweet Mango Sticky Rice andCrispy Banana Roll with Ice Cream, the Fried Coconut Ice Cream wasa dream. A fritter enclosed the ice cream, providing an array oftextures as well as temperatures, with the cool, sweet, softfilling contrasting pleasingly with the crisp, warm exterior.

Glow may be the new kid on the block, but it is hitting a range ofall the right notes, with great food, unique ambiance, genuineowners and good business sense. Its logo of a triangle with acurved bottom was inspired by the ornaments atop the Buddhasculpture’s head in the chef/co-owners’ home districts inThailand.

We wanted to create a really cool space that is interesting andsexy where people can come enjoy great Thai food and Thai homecooking, said Loupos. We have great chefs from some of thebiggest restaurants in Manhattan, and use all local ingredients,curries made every morning, noodles cooked to order. We want tointroduce people to this food, which is also very healthy.

GLOW

7107 Third Avenue

Brooklyn, NY 11209

718-748-1920

Mondays through Saturdays from noon to 11 p.m.

Sundays from noon to 10 p.m.

Eat-in, take-out, lunch special from noon to 3 p.m.

Free delivery from 59th to 95th Street, between Shore Road andEighth Avenue

Noodles are gluten-free.