In the past two decades, the neighborhood of Williamsburg hastransformed from an industrial enclave for artists into some of themost sought-after real estate in the city. If you’ve been lookingfor an excuse to venture into Brooklyn’s newfound nexus of hipness,sushi and Japanese fusion restaurant Fushimi just gave you one.
On January 23, after finding success with locations on StatenIsland and at Fourth Avenue between 93rd and 94th Street, Fushimilaunched its most ambitious location yet – a sprawling, futuristicestablishment with design as intricate as it is inventive. Thepassageway to the bathroom, lit with green neon lights, resemblessomething out of the film Empire Strikes Back. And that is to saynothing of the food.
The cuisine at Fushimi has always been top-notch, but some newmenu additions make this location worth the trip to Williamsburg.One such offering, the Escolar Goma Ponzu ($12) was cookedperfectly, with a crispy outside giving way to the mild succulentcenter of the fish. A black sesame ponzu puree, almost resembling aplum sauce in its subtly sweet yet robust flavor, was the perfectbase for this appealing appetizer.
Another menu highlight is the Spicy Lobster Salad ($12). Mainelobster, crushed peanuts and mint cilantro are pressed together ona bed of thinly sliced avocado for a taste that is as unique as itis satisfying. On the long list of delicious fare, the SpicyLobster Salad stood out both for its light, zesty flavor and itsoriginality.
As expected, the sushi is marvelous. And although you can’t gowrong sampling the variety offered in an order of Sushi and Sashimifor One ($32), more adventurous patrons should not miss samplingthe establishment’s signature special rolls. The Williamsburg($13), offered exclusively at the new location, is a roasted seabass and pickled ginger roll topped with spicy lobster meat, sweetaioli and saiklo miso sauce.
The 475 ($13) roll also takes a sharp left turn from theingredients most sushi enthusiasts would expect. Although a sushiroll with soft shell crab tempura is nothing earth-shattering, theaddition of parmesan cheese, sweet basil and jalapeño withincreates an exciting flavor, which compliments other moretraditional sushi offerings better than you might expect. The 475is topped with spicy tuna and edamame sauce, which creates anunexpectedly delightful blend.
One thing that sets Fushimi apart from other sushi restaurantsis the vast amount of offerings beyond sushi included on the menu.Carnivores, fear not. Both a grilled filet mignon, called the Kingof Steak ($25), and an Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb ($26) are featuredentrees. Or for those seeking smaller portions, the Petit FiletMignon ($12) with truffle wasabi butter, served with asparagus andtruffled mashed potatoes, will win over even the most skepticalmeat-eater.
According to bartender Cecilia Chen, that’s all part of theplan.
You don’t think that a Japanese place will have such goodsteak, Chen said, adding, They want to make sure everybody’shappy.
FUSHIMI
475 Driggs Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11211
718-963-2555
Lunch, dinner and weekend brunch menus available.
Sunday to Wednesday from noon to 11 p.m.
Thursday to Saturday from noon to midnight
On the Avenue: Volunteers assist in beautification effort along Third Avenue 
On the Avenue: Adelphi goes ‘purple’ for our military