Dining Out: Hunter’s Steakhouse is not just for steak lovers

If you’re hungry for a dry-aged porterhouse or T-bone, andyou’re anywhere near southwest Brooklyn, it’s a no-brainer to headover to Hunter’s Steak & Ale House, which does beef the waysteak-lovers like it – thick, juicy, rich with flavor andphenomenally tender.

But, even if you’re not a steak-lover, Hunter’s – which has beenaround since 1986, originally as Lorelei’s – has a wide range ofculinary options prepared with care, from pork chops and penne withblackened chicken to shepherd’s pie and deep fried shrimp, allstarring quintessentially fresh ingredients chosen with care bylongtime restaurant manager Steve Gannon.

Why we have been successful is a combination of the quality offood, service and décor, said Gannon, who takes being hands-on asfar as personally inspecting the ingredients from suppliers, whichare all regionally sourced. Our long-time staff is friendly,easygoing.. We’re not stuffy, yet also fine dining.

Start with the bread basket featuring fragrant onion rolls and warmsesame rolls before moving on to the appetizers, which can beeverything from a jumbo shrimp cocktail ($9 lunch, $12 dinner) tofried mozzarella sticks ($8) and grilled portobello mushrooms withgoat cheese ($8).

The house salad was an enticing combination of crisp fresh mixedgreens, chunks of tomato and cucumber, and red onions that amp upthe flavor, garnished with a nest of carrot shreds elegantly strewnon top ($3.50 at lunch) and lightly dressed with a vinaigrette andoptional black pepper. It was a perfect appetite-teaser, revvingthe taste buds without overwhelming them.

We also tried the Maryland Crab Cakes ($8 lunch, $9 dinner), whichare homemade patties – made by Elda, the wife of co-owner John Ryan- of soft crab chunks that are tender, not fishy and lightly crispyon the outside, and can be eaten with a dab of creamy/tangy tartarsauce.

The aged 22-ounce T-bone steak ($27 at lunch)-a luxe option thatmakes a weekday lunch a special occasion — was seared on top tobring out the beefy flavor, which was further enhanced by a moundof creamy freshly-made mashed potatoes and a bed of cookedspinach.

An equally elegant yet large option is the broiled filet of soleserved with lemon butter sauce ($12 lunch, $21 dinner) atop a bedof julienned carrots, squash and zucchini. Squeeze some fresh lemonon top for some added freshness. The large pile of homemade mashedpotatoes was amazing on its own, but also had a tasty waffledpotato crisp on top.

Dessert was also a treat. The tiramisu ($6) was creamy and rich,sweet without being cloying, and with a coffee flavor that wasstrong but not overpowering. Meanwhile, the homemade apple pie ($6)was a warm, comforting blend of chunky spiced apples and soft yetfirm crust. The vanilla ice cream is optional, but we’d say go forit, as the cold creaminess rounds out the meal perfectly.

Speaking of comforting food, Hunter’s menu actually features aComfort Food section (between $12 and $15), full of fish andchips, savory pot pies, shepherd’s pie and deep fried chickentenders.

Overall, the meal was a delight. Service was attentive. Thesurroundings were relaxing yet warming, with the white tableclothsand wood-paneled walls lending the flavor of a private club, arespite from the hustle and bustle of the city streets.