DINING OUT: Spice is nice at Uncle Jimmy’s BBQ

Sweet and spicy, tangy and smoky, the barbecued pork, chickenand ribs at Uncle Jimmy’s Backyard BBQ bring the sultry flavors anddownhome heartiness of traditional southern barbecue to BayRidge.

Virtually everything the year-and-a-half-old restaurant servesis freshly made, said owner Jimmy Perdikis, who decided to open abarbecue joint because Bay Ridge didn’t have any. He built themenu, he recalled, by sampling lots of barbecue, then trying torecreate and improve upon the things he liked.

Anytime I go someplace, if I like something, I try to figureout how to make it, and make it a little better, Perdikissaid.

Some barbecue may be burning hot, in terms of spiciness, but notUncle Jimmy’s. Perdikis wants his customers to be able to savor thesubtle flavor variations in his offerings.

If people want spicy, I’ll make it, but I make it like this,Perdikis stressed, contending that, when something is very spicy,It could be a piece of cardboard, and diners wouldn’t be able totell, because they wouldn’t really be able to taste it.

There are numerous highlights on the menu of this BBQ joint -which does a brisk business in both eat-in and take-out — but Iparticularly liked the chicken, ribs and shrimp.

The Kansas City Baby Back Ribs ($16 half slab, $25 full slab -both include your choice of two sides), glistening with barbecuesauce, were succulent, tender and sweet, with a gentle kick,enhanced by traditional sides ($2.50 small, $4.50 medium, $7 large)such as Jimmy’s Cole Slaw, Sweet Mashed Potatoes and smoky BakedBeans.

Equally appealing were the St. Louis Style Pork Ribs with a dryrub ($16 half slab, $25 full slab), which just begged to be gnawedoff the bone.

Chicken wings ($6.50 half dozen) can be eaten three ways -original, spicy or coated with barbecue sauce. Both the barbecueand the spicy wings tickle the tongue with a harmony of flavors,sealed in as they are grilled.

The chicken tenders ($8 half dozen, $14 dozen) were spicy, too,but not too spicy. Like everything Jimmy’s serves up, there arelayers of flavor that beg to be explored by the palate.

The grilled jumbo shrimp ($21 for six) – split open so theflames can penetrate the tender flesh – are perfectly complementedby a squeeze of lemon, while the Coconut Shrimp ($10 for six) -crisp on the outside, tender on the inside – are enhanced by adipping sauce that blends horseradish and apricot preserves.

Then there is the pulled pork ($9 sandwich, $14 platter with twosides or a small salad and one side) – sweet and succulent, piledon a soft roll. For those who prefer their meat without barbecueflavoring, the tender morsels of shredded beef, which Perdikis saysis made osso buco style ($9.50 sandwich, $16 platter) will fitthe bill.

The vegetables are also killer-good. Fried Zucchini Strings andFried Onion strings ($6.50 each) are slender and crispy, and not atall greasy, piled high on a plate. And, the BBQ Mesclun GreensSalad ($5 medium, $9 large) brings together many traditionalbarbecue accompaniments – black beans, bacon, toasted corn andcheddar – on a bed of baby greens, all tossed with a dressing thatfeatures honey and Dijon mustard.

Mention should be made of the freshly baked corn muffins (40cents each) – petite and sweet, the perfect accompaniment to thespicy meats.

With portions and flavors equally generous, Uncle Jimmy’s seemsto have developed a recipe for success. The customers that comefrom around the corner or across the borough are thebeneficiaries.

UNCLE JIMMY’s BACKYARD BBQ

8727 Fourth Avenue

Brooklyn NY 11209

718-567-3800

Monday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Sunday 1-9:30 p.m.

www.unclejimmys.com

Free delivery ($10 minimum) as far as 14th Avenue and 65thStreet

Curbside pickup