DINING: Classics remastered, at Belli Osteria

Traditional Italian cuisine doesn’t always mean cliché.

That was eminently true at the fledgling dining spot Belli Osteria, which has just opened on a Fort Greene street corner and is warmly welcoming diners to enjoy impeccably prepared, authentically sourced and extremely sprightly Italian specialties with a twist.

Yes, the ingredients are familiar; so too are the dishes. What’s different is the interpretation, loving and luxe, from restaurateurs who already have three successful dining spots in other Brooklyn neighborhoods – the nine-year-old Fragole in Carroll Gardens, two-year-old Piccoli in Windsor Terrace and the year-old Piccoli Trattoria in Park Slope.

On our visit to Belli, we sampled several of the restaurant’s specialties while chatting with co-owner Andreas Rodas, who opened Belli with his wife, Paula, and Andreas Whang. His enthusiasm for his offerings was as compelling as the flavors that emanate from Belli’s kitchen – which Rodas described as “simple dishes that are flavorful, nothing crazy. Making things simple is not easy.”

But, it is satisfying. The Gnocchi with Duck Ragout ($14.95), for instance, was sumptuous, the rich, hearty and meltingly tender ragout – simmered for five hours — finding its perfect foil in the bite-size dumplings. It was the only main dish we sampled, but there were no complaints from either of us, so appealing was it.

We did taste several appetizers, and the hands-down favorite for at least one of us was the Cavoletto ($8.95), comprised of shaved raw Brussels sprouts in a creamy maple-orange dressing, studded with Marcona almonds and topped with jaunty Pecorino matchsticks, the cheese imported from Sardinia. This salad is totally amazing, beautiful to look at and even more beautiful savored on the palate.

Also spectacular were the Arancini ($8.95), crisp-on-the-exterior, tender-on-the-interior rice balls stuffed with mozzarella and flecked with pesto. They were remarkably light, an inspired reconstruction of the pizzeria staple.

We sampled two different Crostini – one slathered with fresh ricotta cheese, roasted peppers and black olives ($6.50), the tender toppings a delightful contrast with the crunchy toasted bread, the other a flavorful paté comprised of chicken livers and capers, garnished with crispy strips of pancetta. Since the mixture was finely chopped by hand and not pulverized in a food processor, the more adventurous of our pair could taste the savory chunks of liver in this smoky treat.

As much as we did sample, there is so much more on Belli’s copious menu, which also includes breakfast three days a week. As Rodas says, opening for breakfast as well as lunch and dinner is important to the eatery because, “We want to build a community in our restaurant.”

Breakfast offerings, which will start next month, range from Croissants ($2.75, plus $1 for apricot marmalade) to Caramelized French Toast on Rustic Bread with Double Smoked Bacon ($8) and Country Style Omelet with herbs and a choice of cheddar or goat cheese ($9).

The rest of the day, highlights include four takes on Mozzarella di bufalla, imported weekly from Naples, ranging from the classic (with slow-roasted cherry tomatoes and walnut-basil pesto, $9.95) to the unconventional (with sweet and sour cauliflower, dried cranberries and bagna cauda – a rich, garlicky sauce, $9.95).

Other mouthwatering-sounding dishes include Lasagna Verde ($14.50) which layers housemade green lasagna with fresh ricotta and a variety of vegetables – spinach, asparagus and broccoli rabe – as well as Orata ($18.95), a whole baked  Mediterranean sea bream enhanced by fresh herbs and extra virgin olive oil.

And, then there are the desserts. Stars on Belli’s dessert menu (prices range from $7 to $8) include warm individual chocolate cakes with caramel centers and topped with mascarpone whipped cream and toasted hazelnuts, and finished with Maldon sea salt, as well as the Cannoli sundae which combines ricotta ice cream, chocolate chips and candied orange peel, and the Affogato sundae, which pairs vanilla ice cream with a shot of espresso, topped with almond crunch and caramel.

Like the savory foods, they encompass contrast and complement. And, yes, we will be back to sample them.

 

Reporting contributed by Helen Klein.

 

BELLI OSTERIA

860 Fulton Street

Brooklyn, NY 11238

347-799-1230

Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. for lunch; 5 to 11 p.m. for dinner

Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. for lunch; 5 to 11:30 p.m. for dinner

Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. for brunch; 5 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. for dinner