DINING: ZIO TOTO–Delizioso!!

The flavors of southern Italy sing on the palate in the symphony of dishes that diners at Bay Ridge’s Zio Toto can enjoy.

With a focus on traditional Italian cuisine with a twist, the six-year-young eatery beguiles food-lovers with its array of fresh classics.

“Over the years, we have added different dishes, but the basics stay the same,” explained Filippo Giuffre, who owns the restaurant with brother Giuseppe, who is the talented chef behind the masterful cuisine.

Filippo, who runs the business end of the restaurant, stressed that “all ingredients are imported from Italy.” In addition, he points out that the brothers opt for the highest quality they can find. “There are different levels of squid. We try to get the best. There are different types of tuna. We try to get the best,” he explained.

From the bread – a crisp, freshly-baked focaccia provided to diners that was thin and crispy, almost cracker-like, and savory with rosemary, garlic and Parmesan cheese – to the appetizers, main dishes and desserts, the food lived up to the description.

The Insalata con Finocchio ($9), which Giuseppe said was a “summertime salad,” was a divine blend of shaved fennel on top of baby greens augmented with orange segments, cherry tomatoes and Italian olives with a citrus-inflected dressing. Sweet and tart simultaneously, it was refreshing and satisfying.

The Melanzane Napoleone ($12) was an elegant, composed appetizer, featuring layers of eggplant, fresh tomato and fresh mozzarella spiked with basil. The sweetness of the tomatoes was enhanced by the tang of the grilled eggplant in a dish which was modulated by the contrasts of flavor and texture.

We also sampled the restaurant’s Linguine alla Mare Monte ($17), perfectly al dente pasta bathed in a thin tomato sauce with slivers of fresh arugula and shiitake mushrooms, crowned by sizeable shrimp.

We tried two of the restaurant’s main dishes. One of us sampled the Pollo Principessa ($17), chicken cutlets layers with prosciutto, meaty asparagus spears and melted mozzarella cheese, which was accompanied by deliriously creamy mashed potatoes, and al dente carrot sticks and broccoli florets.

The other really enjoyed the Branzino (market price), served with luscious vegetables. Everything in the dish was grilled, with the deep smoky flavor present in every bite. The fish was meaty and mild, pairing well with the asparagus, zucchini, eggplant, carrots and fennel.

Then there was dessert. We sampled the amazing Nutella Pizza, dubbed Nutella Paradise ($14), eight slices of crispy thin focaccia filled with Nutella and topped with powdered sugar, sliced strawberries and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. To say it was awesome would be an understatement.

“This neighborhood has hundreds of restaurants,” Filippo concluded. “Why do people need to come here. We have to provide excellent food, service and atmosphere.”

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