BY DENISE ROMANO AND HEATHER J. CHIN
Tacos El Bronco got their first taste of fame when their yummy truck hit Fifth Avenue and 37th Street six years ago. Three years ago, Mariano Tapia and his nephew, Elias Ballinas decided to open up a brick-and-mortar space on the corner of Fourth Avenue and 44th Street.
“We use home recipes,” Ballinas said, adding that his family ran a taqueria in their hometown of Puebla, Mexico. “We try to have everything: clean linens, fresh food and service are things we focus on. If we have a bad day we learn from it.”
Foodies come from all over the borough to get a taste of the tantalizing tacos and all the other dishes that Tacos El Bronco has to offer, such as cemitas, enchiladas, shrimp salad, and mole poblano. Ballinas said that customers even pay a $20 fee to have their eats delivered to Coney Island.
“I tell them that they are paying more in taxes than in food and they say, ‘I don’t care, I want it!” Ballinas chuckled.
First we tried the famous tacos ($1.50 for small, $2.50 for regular) in a few varieties: El Pastor (roast pork with pineapple), Steak, Chicken and Tripe. The Served in a double soft flour tortilla and topped with creamy guacamole, cilantro and onions, the steak and chicken were savory and tender, the tripe plentiful and crispy. On the side were whole roasted onion bulbs (ingenious and a delicious palate cleanser), slices of radishes, cucumber and lime. For dipping, some zippy salsa verde and piquant salsa roja are provided on the side.
Next, we had a Cemita ($7.50) and a Torta ($6.50). Although both are essentially sandwiches, Ballinas explained that the cemita uses a different type of cheese and comes with a sesame seed bun instead of a plain bun.
Our cemita was made with breaded chicken cutlet (Milanesa de Pollo), topped with a special Mexican herb, papallo, that “gives it flavor,” quesilla cheese, lettuce, tomato and chipotle. Need we say more?
Our torta was filled with scrambled eggs and chunks of chorizo, topped with avocado, cheese, lettuce, tomato, and a bit of jalapeño. Perfect for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, the torta is incredibly filling and savory with a kick.
Perfect for sharing, the Nachos ($5-9.50) are possibly the best nachos we have ever had. Made by toasting homemade tortillas until crisped, then topped with pinto beans, your choice of meat, plus cheese, lettuce, guacamole and tomato, the flavors just melded together sinfully.
Then, we had a Spicy Pork Enchilada ($7) which was a flour tortilla bursting with rice, pork and beans, topped with crema. It was hearty and savory with just enough heat. But if you like it really spicy, request it and they will keep adding more.
Next up was a lovely and colorful Shrimp Salad ($10) with iceberg lettuce, slices of avocado, tomato, red pepper and oranges topped with immaculately grilled shrimp. The shrimp were firm and moist, while the salad drizzled with a tangy Italian dressing.
The Steak Azteca ($14) is fit for a king. Sinfully grilled, the thick yet tender steak was topped with avocado, cheese and a large jalapeno with rice and beans on the side. It was a hearty, tasty plate.
Last but not least was the Mole Poblano ($11): a giant chicken drumstick and thigh surrounded by a delightfully thick sauce of chiles, peppers, plantains, nuts and more spices, and all topped with a sprinkling of sesame seeds. The chicken meat is fall-off-the-bone juicy and the sauce lends a strong sweet note of cinnamon.
Needless to say, we rolled ourselves out of Tacos El Bronco, but were already planning out next trip!
Tacos El Bronco
4324 43rd Street
718-788-2229
Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Friday and Saturday, 10 a.m. to 5 a.m.
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