Dining: Classic comfort food done right

Quality and quantity go hand-in-hand at the retro-looking but very contemporary Parkview Diner.

Generous portions of impeccably fresh food greeted my companion and me on our recent visit, and from the appetizer to the dessert, we found the offerings as appealing to the eye as they were to the palate.

The menu is a large one – the challenge is deciding what to order with so many appealing options.

We went with the Fried Calamari ($8.50) to start our meal off. They were tender within, with a delightfully crunchy breaded exterior, perfect for soaking up the tomato sauce that was served on the side.

We sampled several main dishes, from the classic Grilled Cheese ($5.25) — which was buttery, enhancing the contrast between the melty cheese within and the toasted bread without – to the Cheeseburger Deluxe ($10.20), which was enhanced by both French fries and fried onion rings, as well as lettuce and tomato. The eight-ounce burger was perfectly cooked; even better, it’s served on a house-made roll.

The Spinach Greek Salad ($11.45) was an appealing take on one of our favorite foods, studded with succulent Kalamata olives and chunks of fresh vegetables, as well as a trio of stuffed grape leaves filled with citrus-inflected rice, and sprinkled with feta cheese, topped with anchovies.

The overstuffed Triple Decker Ham Club Sandwich ($11.45) featured a classic pairing of ham and Swiss cheese, plus lettuce and tomato, served artfully around a hearty mound of house-made potato salad. It was as satisfying as it was filling.

Perhaps our favorite was the Spinach Pie with a side Greek Salad ($11.45). The tangy spinach and feta cheese filling with wrapped in flaky filo pastry, was complemented perfectly by the salad.

No, we didn’t have room for dessert. But, we tried a couple anyway since they are all made in house.

The Amaretto Nut Truffle Tartufo ($4.95) comprised a ball of almond ice cream coated with chopped nuts, cut into wedges and displayed artfully on a plate with fresh fruit. The Strawberry Cheesecake ($5.25) was dense and rich, with its brilliant scarlet topping and a dusting of coconut taking it over the top.

We also enjoyed the Mocha Blast ($5.95), a concoction combining iced coffee, chocolate sauce and whipped cream that was cool and delicious – a perfect refresher on a hot summer day.

Finally, we sampled a couple of breakfast favorites. The Belgian Waffle ($6.95) was airy and sweet, and the fluffy swirls of whipped cream, one garnished with a decoratively sliced strawberry, were the ideal accompaniment. The Silver Dollar Pancakes ($7.20) were light and fluffy; sweet, but not too sweet, they did not need syrup.

The top-notch food is just the beginning, according to co-owner Bob Fathelbab, who bought the Parkview about a year ago with Sam Elbassiony. The duo gave the eatery, which was very rundown, a facelift that Fathelbab said has been most appreciated by customers. “We added to the ambiance of the place,” he explained.

In addition, Fathelbab – who cut his teeth in the food service industry during a 20-year stint at the tony Plaza Hotel — said, the menu, which is in transition, is being revamped by the chef he had brought over from his popular diners in Staten Island, Z-One and Z-Two, and who had previously worked at such Brooklyn diners as El Greco and the Bridgeview, among others.

“We’ve been adding things to the menu,” Fathelbab noted, promising a salad station and lots of new culinary options in the next few weeks.

We will certainly be back.

PARKVIEW DINER
2939 Cropsey Avenue
Brooklyn, NY 11214
718-333-9400
Open 24 hours
Free delivery ($10 minimum order) within 2½ miles

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