Dining Out: Southern barbecue comes north

Down home is as close as downtown… Brooklyn, that is, thanks to a lively and casual eatery that is taking Fulton Mall by storm.

Hill Country Barbecue brings the flavors of the south – we’re talking Texas, so those flavors are surely larger than life – right here to the borough of Kings, and does it with a swagger and a lilt worthy of its culinary home.

I had the opportunity to sample some of Hill Country’s signature dishes during a recent reception for press and event planners, and both the variety and the cooking impressed, as did the atmosphere which radiated casual bonhomie.

That said, if y’all like ‘cue, specifically Texas style barbecue, “dry-rubbed and smoked low and slow over Texas Post Oak,” y’all will certainly want to try what Hill Country has to offer, which includes a range of hand-carved meats from brisket to prime rib to turkey breast (priced from $6 to $11 for a one-third pound serving, plus two different sausages – house-made hot links and Kreuz Market Sausage delivered straight from Lockhart, Texas.

There’s also a huge range of sides, also available by weight (hot sides cost from $2.50 or $3 for a quarter pound to $9 or $11 for a full pound, and cold sides range from $2.00 for a quarter pound to $7.50 for a pound), as well as chili-rubbed wings and ribs lightly touched by the elixir of smoke

I sampled a pretty wide array of Hill Country’s offerings, and across the board enjoyed the freshness, flavor and ease of the food being served.

Yes, this is comfort food – think Green Bean Casserole topped with crispy onions that was particularly fetching, as well as smooth and luscious Sweet Potato Bourbon Mash that reminded me of slightly less sweet pumpkin pie, without the crust. Cornbread muffins were served with sweet and spicy Ancho Honey Butter (the restaurant offers up skillet cornbread with the butter for $3).

The riblets were succulent morsels, as were the wings, and both were complemented perfectly by Hill Country’s dense and creamy Mac and Cheese.

Then there were the desserts, which comprised a bountiful array of cookies, cakes, cupcakes, sweet potato bread pudding and brownies. Now, I’m not normally a brownie person, but I was particularly taken by the cowboy brownies, Hill Country’s addictive rendition, which were light-bodied and topped with coconut, and chocolate and butterscotch chips. The bread pudding was also yummy, dense and rich and compelling.

With the country music playing in the background, and the sweet, smoky smell of ‘cue, all that was missing was the field of bluebonnets to complete the Texas experience Brooklyn-style.


345 Adams Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
Free delivery in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn Heights, Cobble Hill, Downtown Brooklyn, DUMBO, Fort Greene, Fulton Ferry and Vinegar Hill
Sunday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.
Catering available; 347-943-2447

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